Maara

Perú,Huandoy Norte, 6395 m Marék Holeček è ripartito lo scorso agosto per il Perù con il connazionale Radolsav Groh. Destinazione: Cordillera Blanca, o meglio, Huandoy Norte per la parete nord. In 55 ore di scalata, il 9 agosto la cordata ceca realizzerà in stile…

Nepal Nord-ovest del Chamlang, 7321 mLa cordata non è nuova a gran belle salite. Una per tutte Satisfaction, ED+ M7 WI5 70° 3000 m, al Gasherbrum I (2017), vincitrice del celebre Piolet d’Or nel 2018. Così, di nuovo legati assieme, i cechi Marék Mara Holeček e Zdeněk…

Kyajo Ri, Lapse of reasonFollowing a tip from Czech mountaineer Martin Otta, Marek Holecěk and Jan Smolen attempted Kyajo Ri (6,151m) from the west in the spring of 2017. Approaching via the village of Landen (4,400m) in the valley of the Bhote Kosi, the two climbed 700m up a steep couloir on the…

Chamlang Northwest Facethe article about Marek Holeček's and Zdeněk Hák's first ascent to north-west face of Chamlang in Japanese language.

UFO line ovnis y alienígenas en el ChamlangEl 23 de mayo completamos la primera ascensión por la cara noroeste del Chamlang (7.321metros), una vertiente que ya había sido probada en numerosas ocasiones en el pasado,pero siempre sin éxito. Su cima domina el valle de Hongu…

Expeditionen weltweitVon Antarktis bis Arktis. Unternehmungen inder Antarktis erfordern eine große Hingabe: Konstant tiefe Temperaturen machen das Leben nicht gerade einfach und das Bergsteigen automatisch extrem. Marek Holeček und Míra Dub kommen damit offensichtlich ganz passabel…

UFOlineEncuentros en la tercera faseEl pasado mes de mayo, Marek Holeček y Zdeněk Hák Hook lograron la primera a la cara noroeste del Chamlang, una vertiente que se había resistido hasta ese momentoal ataque de otras muchas expediciones. Necesitaron tres días para escalar en el…

Sisyphos für FortgeschritteneMeilensteine und Besonderheiten im internationalen Alpinismusiese Art des BergsteinWelches Risiko diese Art des Bergsteidens im Himalaya und Karakorum birgt, davon weiß Marek Holeček zu berichten. Bei einem Versuch an der Südwestwand des Gasherbrum I. in…

Satisfaction! Marek HolečekFive epic expeditions and finally success on Gasherbrum Iˊs southwest face."As you get closer to the summit, the exponential curve of adversities gets ever steeper. Everything costs more energy the farther you get from the point of safe return. Despite this we are still…

Antarctic PeninsulaWiencke Island, Monte Pizduch, Bloody NoseIn 2014 I climbed the south face of an unnamed peak on the east coast of Anvers Island, which I named Monte Samila (64°38´56”S, 63°12´59”W). It gave a 1,500m ascent with difficult ice and unstable snow (WI5…

Horolezecké oskaryPiolet d'Or (Zlatý čakan) je najprestíznejším medzinárodným horolezeckým ocenením, ktoré sa udeľuje od roku 1992 za  najvýznamnejšie výkony v horách. Účelom týchto…

NEPAL,HIMALAYA CENTRALEKyajo Ri 6186 mI cechi Marek Holeček e Zdeněk Hák sono ritornati quest’anno al Kyajo Ri 6186 m, nella regione del Khumbu, per realizzare quanto avevano lasciato in sospeso nel 2017. Apriranno così Lapse of reason, 1600 m, M6WI4+3+UIAA, ED+, tra il 25 e il…

"Lapse of reasn" Regreso a Kyajo RiEl viaje primaveral al Himalaya Nepalí me trajo a la mente la imagen de un ratón dando vueltas en una rueda. Corres y corres, y cuando te detienes, te das de bruces contra el suelo. Y encima, la lógica rotación por inercia de la…

Spirit of Piolets d'OrThe purpose of the Piolets d'Or awards is to raise awareness about the year's greatest ascents across the world. They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world's great mountain ranges. The…

Verticalità polariSospinti dagli snowkite lungo le infinite diatese ghiacciate. Giorni di navigazione tra iceberg e acque in burrasca. Pesanti slitte al traino, condizioni climatiche rigidissime, venti impetuosi. Crchi, americani, francesi, e una cordata anglo-franco-neozelandese, sono stati…

Holeček e Bernat aprono una nuova via per la vetta del Sura PeakI due alpinisti cechi hanno aperto una nuova via stile alpino sulla parete notd-ovest.Márek Holeček e Bernat Matěj hanno raggiunto la vetta del Sura Peak, nell’Himalaya nepalese, dopo 4 intensi giorni di arrampicata. La…

Marek Holecek e Matej Bernat in vetta al Sura Peak (6.754 m)!I due alpinisti cechi sono giá scesi al Campo BaseI cechi Marek Holeček e Matěj Bernát hanno raggiunto con successo la vetta del Sura Peak (6.764 m), attraverso la parete Nord-Ovest. La notizia è…

Marek Holecek y Matej Bernat abren ruta en el Sura PeakLa cordada checa ha trazado una nueva línea de unos 1.300 metros de desnivel en la cara noroeste de este seismil del Khumbu que han bautizado como ‘Simply Beautiful’ y que les ha exigido pasar cuatro días en la pared.…

Holecek and Bernat Safe in BC After Summiting Sura PeakMarek Holecek and Matej Bernat reached the top of 6,764m Sura Peak yesterday, despite a fierce storm that forced a third bivouac near the summit. They were attempting the 1,300m-high Northwest Wall.The news came only today after the climbers…

Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in NepalMarek Holeček and Matěj Bernát have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.After Chamlang…

Aggionamento FlashMarek Holecek e Matej Bernat hanno raggiunto il villaggio di Thame, diretti verso il Sura Peak (6.764 m), conosciuto anche come Hongku (o Hongu), non lontano dal Khumbu. Una volta alla base della montagna, che affronteranno in stile alpino, decideranno la linea di salita…

Marek Holecek y Matej Bernat intentarán un ‘misterioso’ seismil en el KhumbuEl dos veces Piolet d’Or ha anunciado que buscarán la segunda ascensión del Sura Peak (6.764 m), también conocido como Hongu, Hongku y otros varios nombres, aunque decidir…

Holecek and Bernat to Climb Sura Peak, Near EverestMarek Holecek waited until he was off to reveal the peak that he and partner Matej Bernat will climb. Had he mentioned it before, few would have recognized the name. Holecek says that the mountain is “neither a giant nor a small one.”…

72 Hours In Hell: A Case Study in Suffering and SurvivalThe new route on Himalayan peak was the hardest of high-altitude veteran Marek Holeceks life, and became a climb of epic proportions.In May, Czech two-time Piolet d’Or winner Marek Holeček and his partner Radoslav Groht spent four…

Top 10 Expeditions of 2019: #3: ChamlangOver the last 12 months, ExplorersWeb has documented incredible adventures in climbing, cycling, running, walking, skiing and anything involving force of will and dedication to a dream in the outdoors. As this year comes to a close, we present our countdown…

"UFO line", ChamlangZdeněk Hák, alias “Hook” y Márek Holeček ascendieron, en estilo alpino, entre el 17 y el 23 de Mayo 2019, la cara noroeste del Chamlang, una montaña nepalí de 7.321 m de altura. Un gigante, que ha recibido numerosos intentos sin é…

Marek Holeček Does Beautiful FA in Peru Under a Burning SkyHoleček’s account of his and Radek Groh’s FA on Huandoy Norte is full of objective danger—rockfall of the worst kind— but also of beauty, including the most fiery sunset he’s ever seen.Breathing rapidly, I…

Boys 1970 - Erstbegehung am Huandoy NorteMarek Holeček und Radoslav Groh gelingt eine schwierige Neutour in Peru.Marek Holeček und sein Kletterpartner Radoslav Groh haben es geschafft! Den beiden Tschechen gelingt eine Erstbegehung durch die Ostwand des Huandoy Norte (6'360 m). Marek und…

Marek Holeček’s first ascent at Huandoy NorteMammut Pro Team Athlete Marek Holeček and his climbing partner Radoslav Groh did it! The two Czech mountaineers made the first ascent of a new route, which leads through the center of the eastern face of Huandoy Norte (6360m). Marek and Radoslav…

Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in PeruClimbing alpine style, Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh have established a new route up Huandoy North (6360m) in Peru.Not even three months after the impressive first ascent of the northwest face of Chamlang in Nepal.…

Huandoy North, nuova via di Márek Holeček e Radoslav Groh in PerùArrampicando in stile alpino, Márek Holeček e Radoslav Groh hanno aperto una nuova via su Huandoy North, montagna di 6360 metri in PerùA nemmeno tre mesi dalla prima salita della parete notd-ovest di…

Marek Holecek y Radoslav Groh abren “Boys 1970” en el Huandoy Norte1.200 metros de longitud, y una dificultad de M6 y WI6 tiene la ruta que los dos escaladores checos han abierto en el Huandoy Norte. Siguen en Perú, así que seguro que en los próximos días…

Interview: Marek Holeček On The First Ascent Of The Northwest Face Of ChamlangMarek Holeček and Zdeněk “Hook” Hák, two Czech alpinists leading the charge of the light and fast on the world’s tallest peaks, have a new boundary-pushing ascent under the belts: In mid-May,…

Zdenek Hak and Marek Holecek complete the first ascent of Chamlang's northwest faceAfter completing Satisfaction on Gasherbrum I in 2017, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak teamed up for another huge, demanding route this last May, this time on the northwest face of Chamlang (7321m)…

Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in NepalCzech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb…

Holeček & Hák: The Inside Story of Their New Route on ChamlangIn a season with plenty of bad news and criticism, with mainstream media bemoaning the stupidity of most climbers, Czech climbers Marek Holeček and Zděnek Hák brought a rare bit of alpine good news, with a bold new…

Marek Holeček i Zdeněk Hák pokonali północno-zachodnią ścianę ChamlangMarek Holeček i Zdeněk Hák pokonali dziewiczą północno-zachodnią ścianę Chamlang (7319 m), to kolejne świetne przejście tego zespołu. Czesi jeszcze walczą w zejściu ze szczytu: &ldquo…

Piolets d’Or 2018: Marek Holecek und Zdenek Hak gewinnen „Oscar“ des AlpinismusDie tschechischen Extrembergsteiger erhalten die höchste Auszeichnung im Bergsport für eine neue Route am 8080 Meter hohen Gasherbrum I.Der Piolet d’Or zählt in der…

Marek Holeček wins Piolets d’Or 2018Mammut athlete Marek Holecek and his climbing partner Zdenek Hak have won the Piolets d’Or. The two Czech mountaineers have received the highest honor for their exceptional performance in mountain sports. The athletes have conquered Gasherbrum I (8…

Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak win the Piolets d'Or, the Oscar os mountains sportsThe two Czech mountaineers and Mammut Pro Team Athletes Marek Holeček and his climbing partner Zdenek Hak received the highest accolade for exceptional mountain sports performance. They conquered the Gasherbrum I (8,080…

Lapse of Reason', la nueva vía de Marek Holecek y Zdenek Hak en el Kyajo RiLos alpinistas checos Marek Holecek y Zdenek Hak han abierto una vía en un seismil de Nepal. Se llama Lapse of Reason, tiene 1.600 metros y dificultades de hasta M6, WI 4+, 3+UIAA, ED+.Los alpinistas…

Holeček s Hákem dostanou za prvovýstup na Gasherbrum I. horolezeckého "Oscara"Marek Holeček a Zdeněk Hák získali jako první Češi horolezeckého "Oscara", prestižní ocenění Zlatý cepín. Cenu pro nejvý…

Tres ascensiones recibirán el Piolet de Oro 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare y Nuptse. Mención especial a Honnold y NilkanthaLas nuevas rutas al Gasherbrum I, Shispare y Nuptse han sido elegidas por el jurado como actividades merecedoras del Piolet de Oro 2018, entre las 58 seleccionadas.…

Four climbs and one person to be recognized at 2018 Piolets d'Or in Ladek, PolandOut of 58 climbs on the list of "significant ascents" in 2017, the Piolets d'Or committee has announced three climbs and two special mentions to be recognized at the upcoming 2018 award ceremony, which will be held…

Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mentionThree ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I. climbed by Zdeněk H´k and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW…

ZŁOTE CZEKANY 2018 przyznane! Laureaci gośćmi Festiwalu Górskiego w Lądku – ZdrojuZnamy tegorocznych laureatów najważniejszej nagrody wspinaczkowej świata – Złotych Czekanów (les Piolets d’Or), które zostaną wręczone we wrześniu podczas Festiwalu G…

Marek Holecek y Míra Dub, aventura y primera ascensión en la Antártida La cordada checa necesitó 33 horas en tierra firme y una nariz sangrante para ascender en estilo alpino el Monte Pizduch (1.000 m) a través de Bloody nose (850 m, ED+, M4, WI5+, 95…

Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out…

Czech climbers realize 'Satisfaction' on Gasherbrum's southwest faceMarek Holecek has returned to the southwest face of Gasherbrum I (8080) five times since 2009 in a bid to complete a route up the middle of the face through two rockbands. After enduring multiple epics—including the death of…