Grand Prix Piolets d´Or 201


Historical success for the Czech Republic and Czech mountaineering
On Saturday evening, September 22, a gala evening was held in Ladek Zdrój (Pl) on the occasion of the Piolets d´Or, or “Golden Axe” award. This is the worldwide announcement of the best climbing from last year. And ours were there. Twice. The international jury selected two Czech first ascents from Pakistan and Antarctica for a wider nomination. There were two couples, Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček and the other pair, Miroslav Dub and again Marek Holeček. In the end our main prize was taken for the first climb in Alpine style on Gasherbrum I.8080m, located in Karakoram, Pakistan. This is the first ever worldwide award for Czech alpinism. As a reminder, Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hruby were already nominated in Chamonix, France in 2014. At that time, however, there was a potato prize for the first ascent to Nepalese Talung 7434m, located in the eastern Himalayas. However, this year the jury has already decided in our favor and the Golden Ice Axe goes to the Czech Republic. At the ceremony itself, where the couple was called to receive the award, M.Holeček climbed up on the stage accompanied by his little daughter, which caused an amusement in a festive atmosphere. The absence of Z. Hák was unfortunately caused by momentary illness. Maybe next time. The award was presented by the legend of Polish mountaineering Krzysztof Wielicki, who is known mainly for the winter ascents to the 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest. During a well-managed four-day festival, the organizers offered a varied program and many well-known personalities not only from the golden Himalayan era, such as Sir Chris Boningtn, but also the current BigWall climbing leader Tommy Caldwell. After the closing ceremony. M. Holecek commented to the press: “It is not only a caress for the performance of the two of us with Zdenda, but also a historical appreciation of Czech Alpinism on which we could grow up. I would like to thank all of our climbing ancestors who have walked our way and passed a code that led us in the right direction. ”


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