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Expedition Nepal 2018, Kyazo Ri (6120 m a.s.l.), “Lapse of reason”, first ascent
Expedition Nepal 2018, Kyazo Ri (6120 m a.s.l.), “Lapse of reason”, first ascent

Hey man, it's there!The whole spring trip to the Nepalese Himalayas reminded me of a mouse in a running wheel. You just run, and when you stop, you fall down on the nose. Then, the subsequent rotation of the wheel shoots you mercilessly out. You're just out of the game and that’s it. In short, timing had almost no reserves, including experience, which lost any right to vote at the time of departure from home. The assumption was that…

Wedding with Mammut
Wedding with Mammut

When I started to climb, we still belonged behind the iron curtain of the Eastern Bloc. No quality climbing material was available in our country. There was some domestic production, but I rather prefer not to mention its quality. By the end of the nineties, our country took a breath of freedom, and I began to undertake my first trips to the Alps. I watched the equipment of the climbers living in the Alps and I silently envied. After various…

Expedition Antarctica 2018, Monte Pizduch, Bloody Nose, First ascent
Expedition Antarctica 2018, Monte Pizduch, Bloody Nose, First ascent

The Bloody Nose A new route “Bloody Nose”, Monte Pizduch Our target was Mount Wheat with four individual summits forming the Wall Range. It is located on the 30-kilometre-long Winkle Island, close to the Antarctic mainland, separated from it by a narrow strip of ocean. I had seen this peak already in 2014 when I climbed in Antarctica for the first time. At that time, we managed to climb a neat first ascent to a nameless peak of the…

Expedition Pakistan 2017, Gasherbrum I., Satisfaction!, first ascent
Expedition Pakistan 2017, Gasherbrum I., Satisfaction!, first ascent

Satisfaction! A new route “Satisfaction!”, Gasherbrum I. This project was initiated by a legendary duo of Polish Himalayan climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Voytek Kurtyka more than thirty years ago, who did not succed to climb the central south west face.  We followed their idea and started to chase this project back in 2009 and chose the left hand ice couloir in central wall to start our climb.At that time the only unanswered…