The American Alpine Journal 2009 - Kapura
Čt, 2009-12-31 01:00 | 
marek holecek
The American Alpine Journal, 2009
Climbs and Expeditions: PAKISTAN
Page: 284-285
Kapura Peak, south summit (ca 6,200m), Wild Wings. In 1999 on the summit of Amin Brakk, after the first ascent of the west face, I looked over the vast mountain range stretching between K6 and Masherbrum and later sought the name of a mountain that had aroused my interest, reminding me of the north face of an overgrown Grandes Jorasses. It was Kapura Peak (6,544m), first climbed by an American-Slovenian expedition in 2004. It took nine long years before I could get to the Charakusa Valley and attempt Kapura. Jan Doudlebsky and I reached base camp below K7 on July 7. After acclimatizing, there was nothing left for us but to find the right approach through the glacier and begin the climb.
The west side of Kapura Peak, seen from high on the south side of Drifika. (A) Kapura Peak (6,544m), first climbed by an American-Slovenian team in 2004, via the southwest face and northwest ridge (left skyline). (B) South summit (ca 6,200m) of Kapura Peak; Jan Doudlebsky and Marek Holecek climbed the couloir and ridge to the south peak in a three-day round trip. (C) K6 West (7,040m). (D) K6 (7,281m). The long ridge in the foreground extends between Drifika and Amin Brakk. Marek Holecek
After a period of changeable weather with occasional snow, on July 13 we initiated our climb of the huge northwest-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face. After a snowy ramp, we reached the first rock step, totally bare of ice. This unpleasant section led to a rocky corner with an inconsistent layer of ice. At the end of the day we dug a tiny bivouac platform below a large rock barrier.
It began snowing in the morning on July 14. We climbed around the barrier on the left to approach an icefield. As the snowfall continued, powder avalanches became more frequent. We kept pushing to the end of the icefield, where we established a bivy that was even worse than the first one, hanging in harnesses instead of sitting. We were soaked and started to freeze.
Marek Holecek leading the headwall of Wild Wings (1,300m, WI5+ M7 70°) on Kapura Peak’ s south summit. Jan Doudlebsky
On July 15 the sky cleared, and we had a spectacular view of the eastern Karakoram. We continued via a narrow chimney. Mixed climbing prevailed, with some vertical steps of hard ice. The final moves went through a loose, snow-capped overhang. At the col, we climbed the ridge to reach the south summit of Kapura (ca 6,200m) at 12:30 p.m. Without delay we turned around and started to rappel. When the sun reached the wall, the snow turned into a river, but we reached our tent on the glacier at 8 p.m., and the following day reached base camp. We called our route Wild Wings (1,300m, WI5+ M7 70°).
MAREK HOLECEK, Czech Republic
[Napsal: Marek Holeček, 2009-12-31]
Info:
Článek zveřejněn v ročence The American Alpine Journal, 2009
427x přečteno | 
Tagy: 
Informative material
Your post is very impressive and informative. I have read it and agree with your views, ideas and opinions becasue it is the demand of the time. I am a web developer and working on a project of article directory, articleworlddb in these days. Therefore i am just putting short views here but after some days i shall go in details and provide complete information regarding the topic. Moreover i want to add some interesting things in my article directory as well.
The American Alpine Journal 2009 - Kapura
A team lead by Cory Richards and Conrad Anchor are installing five time-lapse cameras around the Khumbu Ice Fall. These cameras will help document the glacial recession on the world's highest mountain. To read more, click here.
--On May 17th, Edurne Pasaban became the second woman to climb all 14, 8,000 meter peaks with her successful ascent of Shishapangma in Nepal. The Spaniard's accomplishment comes right at the coat tails of Korean ccna Oh Eun-Sun's disputed achievement of the same goal. Regardless, Edurne's fifth attempt of Shishapangma yeilded postive results, and she has achieved her goal. To read more, click here.
--13 year old Jordan Romero is somewhere at or above Everest Base Camp, attempting to become the youngest person to summit the mountain. His quest to become the youngest person to climb all seven summits brings him to Everest as his fifth summit. Romero is attempting to summit from the Tibetan side, seeing as the the Tibetan government has no age minimum on climbing Everest. His age has sparked debate in the climbing world regarding the seemingly common issue of, "how young is too young?" To read about this Everest trip,